Metal Thread History

Gold thread originally came from Asia, travelling to Beirut with the silk merchants. Its use became widespread after the birth of Christ and it could be found on vestments and clothes in countries like Cyprus, Egypt, Greece Italy and Turkey. The Middle Ages brought the greatest period of Church embroidery and much of it Goldwork, in what was known as Opus Anglicanum. The quality of the work was so high that orders came from all over Europe including the Vatican.

During the fifteenth century a new technique known as Or Nué came into production in Europe. Strands of gold thread were couched down in pairs in coloured silks and were shaded by the closeness of the stitches. After the Opus Anglicanum period, metal thread embroidery was used exclusively to decorate clothing and furnishing for the nobility and the church. Portraits from the Period of Queen Elizabeth 1 rein, illustrate how lavishly metal thread was used to decorate clothing. Even Blackwork embroidery portrayed in the paintings of the 16th century, was mixed with metal threads and spangles.

During the eighteenth century gold and metal threads were used extensively and produced flamboyant garments worn in the English and continental courts. Later metal threads garnished military dress uniforms and civic regalia and still do today.

In the nineteenth century during the Arts and Craft Movement wonderful designs produced by William Morris, Lewis Day and others, but not many used gold threads to a great extent.

In the twentieth century Goldwork techniques were carried on through the teaching and commission of the Royal School of Needlework and the works of embroiderers such as Beryl Dean and Jane Lemon who use metal threads in an imaginative and exciting way, on vestments and alter frontals for the church.

Goldwork continues today through the teaching of specialized teachers and enthusiastic embroiderers.